Located on 1.2 million acres in northern Arizona, the Grand Canyon is one of the most visited parks in the world. One of the most spectacular examples of the uniqueness of the Creation, the Grand Canyon is unmatched in the incomparable views it offers on and below the rim. What most do not realize is that there is a lower canyon that can not really be seen from the rim - and it is just as impressive. The canyon within a canyon, multi-colored rock, wildlife, waterfalls, sheer rock faces and more that you will experience are beyond words - it must be experienced.

Five million people a year visit the Grand Canyon, but less than 1% stay overnight under the rim, and few consider the Grand Canyon a winter destination. Travel under the rim may be best in the winter, though, because of the cool weather, little rain, and no crowds. While the lower canyon can go well over 100^oF in the summer (it is desert), it was a sunny 60oF in the days of our January Life Adventure - nearly perfect for hiking. While it was colder at night, it didn't get much below freezing and we were snug in our cabin at the time. 

Winter is the only time you can do an extended 3 day, 2 night mule train trip to Phantom Ranch in the lower canyon. Here's a travel plan:

Day 1. Travel to Las Vegas, NV.

Day 2. Shows in Las Vegas, NV.

Day 3. Travel to Grand Canyon. Hoover Dam and Lake Meade is right on the way. If you have time, the Dam has a nice "Discovery Tour" (Adults $8-$10) that takes you down to the bottom hydroelectric plant and through parts of the Dam you never thought you'd see. Plan 3 hours at Hoover Dam if you do take the tour.

After a 4-5 hour drive, you arrive at Grand Canyon. Visit the many vista points along the rim by car. There is a free shuttle bus service if you'd rather park. Dine on the rim at the El Tovar Hotel, the lodge that hosted President Teddy Roosevelt on his many trips to Grand Canyon. Stay on the rim or nearby in one of the Park Service lodges.

Day 4. Mule Train Down. Be at the mule circle at 7:30AM. Get a lesson in mule safety and technique from the wranglers and hit the Bright Angle Trail by 9:00AM. Although we rode in mid-January, the first half hour was the only time we saw snow. After the first hour, we were removing layers to keep from over-heating. There are some incredible views and steep cliffs along the way, but as we were going to find out, the best would come after lunch. At 11:30 we reached Indian Gardens and stopped for lunch. This is a popular turn-around point of many day hikes.

Snow on trail near rim

After 30-40 minutes you're back on your mule, each with his own personality and name ("Dan", "Happy", "Lucky", "Sue", etc). The cliffs and views will be even more spectacular! What's even more incredible is how the mules love to walk on the edge and they'll do it even more if they sense you're uncomfortable. There was more than one time I had to laugh when I saw the mules ahead of me walking inches from the edge of hundred foot drop. I didn't bother to look where my mule was walking (it wouldn't have helped). After some incredible cutbacks where even atheists tend to find religion, you'll enter the lower canyon. It has its own thousand foot, multi-colored cliffs that can't really be seen from the rim. 

Colorado River

The last couple of miles follow the Colorado River on a trail that was carved right out of the rock. Finally you'll arrive at the narrow suspension bridge that crosses the river. But, to get on it, you'll ride into a 100' tunnel that's also cut out of the rock. You'll exit onto the bridge and over the river. Fifteen minutes later, at about 2:30PM, you'll reach Phantom Ranch, completing the 10-1/2 mile mule trip with 5,800 feet of elevation change.

There are a number of short hikes that can be done in the afternoon, including one that's about 1/2 mile and takes you to an overlook of Bright Angel Canyon and the Colorado River. You may need the walk to get your legs back in the right shape - my legs weren't made to wrap around a mule for as long as they did! Be back at the Phantom Ranch Canteen for dinner (steak and potatoes or meat and vegetable stew) by 5:30P. Don't be late or you'll miss out! Talk with fellow travelers at Canteen until long after dark and then retire to a cabin, a gender specific dorm, or to your campsite and tent. 

Day 5. Hike to Ribbon Falls (13 miles roundtrip, difficulty=3). Click HERE to visit the Ribbon Falls day hike guide with life adventure photos.

Day 6. Mule Train Up. Be at the mule circle at 7:30A. Get a quick lesson in safety and technique from the wranglers and hit the trail by 9:00A. This time you return by the South Kaibab Trail. It's shorter (7-1/2 miles, 4-1/2 hours) than the Bright Angel Trail taken on the way down, but much steeper. You'll reach the rim by noon.

Day 7. Return to Las Vegas for flight home. 


The park issues 13,000 permits and close to 40,000 people camp overnight in the backcountry at Grand Canyon each year. The majority are hiking here for the first time and tend to react to the experience in one of two ways: either they can't wait to get back, or they swear they'll never do it again. Your hike can be a revelation or an ordeal. It will be unforgettable.

	Bridge to Phantom Ranch