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What is the difference between static and dynamic ropes? A dynamic rope is designed to stretch to absorb the shock of a fall. These ropes are constructed of 100% nylon. Dynamic ropes would be appropriate for all rock climbing applications. All of EarthTraces' Maxim ropes are Dynamic. Static ropes are designed not to stretch. Low stretch is preferred for rappelling and most rescue situations. The advantage of a low stretch rope for rappelling is that it will not bounce, making it easier to control when lowering. Code the end tips of your ropes. While there's no law about it, it makes good sense to code the ends of your ropes so you immediately can tell the difference between a static and dynamic rope. We've used color tape, heat shrink plastic and "liquid" plastic to color code the last inch or so of the ropes. All work well. For us, white means dynamic, black means static.
A dynamic rope is strong for its size. However, the rope is primarily designed to absorb the shock of a fall. A strong rope may or may not absorb a fall better than a less strong rope. The UIAA does require a tensile test for rope certification, but a dynamic rope will break at approximately 7,000 to 9,000 lbs depending on size and construction. Tensile strength should not be considered when choosing a dynamic climbing rope. It is not relevant to how a rope performs for rock climbing and mountaineering.
The dry coating slowly deteriorates with use. This is primarily due to abrasion. How often you climb and the type of rock you climb will effect how quickly the coating deteriorates. Dry coating wear off quickly in very abrasive areas such as Joshua Tree and last longer in New England. Washing your rope also reduces the effectiveness of the dry coating. In general, a dry coating will be effective for a year for moderate use on granite rock.
For best results, wash in a front load washer with mild detergent (ex: woolite). Wash on gentle cycle. Allow rope to hang dry, protected from direct sun light.
General recommendations (these are basic recommendations. Experienced climbers may choose to base their decisions on very specific attributes for very specifics applications): 11mm = Top Roping, Big Wall Climbing, Ascending, Rescue, Guides. 10.5mm = Trad (Traditional) Climbing, Sport Climbing, Top Roping. 9.8mm = Sport Climbing, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering. 9mm = Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering/Glacier Travel. 8.5mm = Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering/Glacier Travel. Keep in mind: Larger diameter ropes are more abrasion resistant and have greater fall capacity. Smaller ropes are lighter (a big advantage in climbing and mountaineering). Larger ropes move more slowly through belay devices and are easier to grab for beginners.
The dry coating seals the rope and protects against water absorption. A wet rope has less: fall capacity, strength, and abrasion resistance. Dry coatings also increase abrasion resistance and edge protection when not exposed to water. It is the position of MAXIM that a dry rope is superior to a standard rope in all aspects. The only advantage of a standard rope is a lower cost. |
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